New Zealand Motorbike Driving Riding in Adverse Conditions Questions and Answers — Questions and Answers
Question 1: When riding in a strong, steady crosswind coming from your left, which of the following is the most effective and stable way to maintain your intended path of travel?
- Apply steady, light forward pressure to the left handlebar to lean the motorcycle slightly into the wind. (Correct answer)
- Tense your arms and shoulders to resist the wind and keep the handlebars straight.
- Move to the far right-hand side of your lane to create a buffer.
- Lean your upper body to the right, away from the wind, to counteract the force.
Correct answer: Apply steady, light forward pressure to the left handlebar to lean the motorcycle slightly into the wind.
To counteract a crosswind from the left, you need to lean the motorcycle to the left, into the wind. This is achieved through counter-steering: applying light forward pressure to the left handlebar. This action keeps the motorcycle tracking straight in your lane despite the side force from the wind. Tensing up or leaning your body away from the wind will destabilize the motorcycle.
Question 2: You are riding on a country road in late autumn. What is the safest way to approach and navigate a corner that is visibly covered in damp, fallen leaves?
- Slow down significantly before the corner, and ride through the leaves with the motorcycle as upright as possible. (Correct answer)
- Brake gently while riding over the leaves to maintain a slow speed throughout the patch.
- Accelerate just before the leaves to pass over them quickly, minimizing contact time.
- Maintain your normal cornering speed and lean angle, trusting your tyres to grip.
Correct answer: Slow down significantly before the corner, and ride through the leaves with the motorcycle as upright as possible.
Wet leaves are extremely slippery and offer minimal traction, similar to ice. The safest strategy is to reduce your speed *before* entering the hazardous area. Once on the leaves, you should avoid any abrupt inputs, which includes braking, accelerating, or significant leaning. Keeping the bike as upright as possible maximizes the tyre's contact patch for the limited grip available.
Question 3: Which of the following road surfaces becomes the MOST dangerously slippery when wet, requiring extreme caution?
- Coarse, new asphalt.
- A steel manhole cover or bridge expansion joint. (Correct answer)
- A concrete driveway crossing.
- Porous 'quiet' tarmac designed to drain water.
Correct answer: A steel manhole cover or bridge expansion joint.
Metal surfaces, such as manhole covers, steel plates, and bridge expansion joints, offer almost zero friction when wet. Tyres have very little ability to grip on a wet metal surface, making them extremely hazardous for braking or turning. While other surfaces also become slippery, metal is the most treacherous.
Question 4: You are caught in a thick fog which severely limits your visibility. To be as safe as possible, what is the best practice for using your motorcycle's lights?
- Use your high beam, as its powerful light will penetrate the fog better.
- Use only your park lights to avoid creating glare.
- Use your low beam, as it is aimed downwards and reduces the amount of light reflected back at you by the fog. (Correct answer)
- Intermittently flash your high beam to warn oncoming traffic of your presence.
Correct answer: Use your low beam, as it is aimed downwards and reduces the amount of light reflected back at you by the fog.
Using your high beam in fog is dangerous because the light reflects off the tiny water droplets in the air, creating a 'wall of white' that severely reduces your own visibility. Your low beam (or dipped beam) is aimed downwards towards the road surface, illuminating the path ahead while minimizing glare and reflection.
Question 5: It has just started raining after a long dry spell, making the road surface greasy. What is the primary and most immediate hazard in this situation?
- Your visor will fog up instantly, obscuring your vision.
- The risk of aquaplaning is at its highest.
- Water getting into the engine's air intake.
- Oil, dust, and grime on the road mixing with the water to create an exceptionally slippery film. (Correct answer)
Correct answer: Oil, dust, and grime on the road mixing with the water to create an exceptionally slippery film.
The first 15-30 minutes of rain after a dry period are often the most dangerous. This is because the rainwater mixes with the accumulated oil, rubber dust, and dirt on the road surface, creating a slick, greasy film that dramatically reduces tyre grip. After a while, the rain will wash this film away, and traction will slightly improve, although it will still be less than in the dry.
Question 6: Compared to riding in dry conditions, how should you adapt your braking technique when riding on a wet road?
- Rely only on the rear brake to avoid a front-wheel skid.
- Apply the brakes much later, but more forcefully, to ensure you stop in time.
- Brake primarily while leaned over in corners to maintain stability.
- Increase your following distance, and apply both brakes earlier and more gently. (Correct answer)
Correct answer: Increase your following distance, and apply both brakes earlier and more gently.
Wet roads significantly reduce tyre grip, which increases your total stopping distance. To compensate, you must increase your following distance (the NZ Road Code recommends a 4-second gap) to give yourself more time and space to react. Braking should be done earlier and with smoother, more progressive inputs to both front and rear brakes to avoid overwhelming the available traction and causing a skid.
